All was calm today across the Sultanate of Oman. The unrest spreading like a forest fire throughout the Middle East seems absent in Dubai’s neighboring country. Muskat, the capitol city, was calm and it was business as usual. Not even a token protest group outside any of the government buildings. Perhaps the billboards professing national love for Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said are not just propaganda. He has ruled Oman since 1970.
Today we took an entirely different route through Muskat than my previous two adventures to this fair city. I learned that the route varies, seemingly to drop off passengers at requested locations. Drivers for the Oman Bus Service either travel solo or with a posse. They are often talking on their cell phones while driving, and usually pretend to fasten their seatbelts. If traveling with a posse the passengers are treated to animated conversation among the drivers, who are passionately discussing topics I imagine to be intriguing by the crescendo of voices and amplitude of gestures.
Today I didn’t realize they were discussing what to do with the five remaining passengers, which included me!
We were in an obscure corner of the city that I hadn’t seen before, and I wasn’t concerned until everyone was ordered off the bus. I noticed with growing alarm that I was the only woman, and the only non-Arabic passenger among the small group of people unceremoniously dumped at a curb. I searched the men’s faces for a pair of eyes willing, or able, to explain. Finally one of the gentlemen said, “Change bus. Other bus needs gas.”
Ahhh! The intriguing conversation I had observed earlier wasn’t about politics, religion, or football. It was centered around the gas gage! I’ll never know why they didn’t just pull over and put a few Rials worth of diesel in the tank just to get us there.
A little minivan bearing the flying gazelle logo of the Oman Bus Service skidded to a halt in front of us piloted by our original bus driver. He was in a hurry, and we passed every car on the road with alarming speed. Our replacement “bus” pelted through Muskat like a bat out of Hades, but the co-pilot and other passengers seemed unconcerned as they gripped headrests and handles to avoid being pitched sideways. I wanted to stick my head out the window to see if it had ambulance lights on top, but didn’t want to risk being smacked by a palm frond as we zipped past. With genuine delight I spied KFC, and knew we had made it to the bus station, Hamdullah!
On the six-hour bus ride home, the scene was consistent in all the small towns we passed through. Vegetable vendors squatted on the sidewalk next to massive mounds of potatoes and onions. Other men lounged in the grass under the shade of trees, waiting for the call to prayer. Every half-kilometer we passed a dirt lot full of boys playing football (soccer). Most were barefoot, playing with no less gusto than the boys wearing football shoes and mismatched uniform jerseys.
Between the villages were hundreds of beautiful small farms being irrigated and tended. Central to each farm was and elaborate mansion flanked by palm trees. These ornate villas are beautiful and each one had a unique design. Some were brightly colored with intricate patterns, others sleek and white. Most were big enough to house a dozen families comfortably.
I am happy to report that it seems all is well in Oman.
Now for the bad news: It has taken so long for my diploma and other documents to be attested (stamped by county, state, and federal government officials, then the UAE embassy in Washington) that my passport is expiring. At the border crossing back into Dubai, I was sternly warned to renew it immediately.
Great. After the expenses of today, I am down to my last few Dirhams. PLUS there is an “EPIC BLIZZARD” in Oklahoma, so the roads are closed which is delaying my paperwork even further. I have a fantastic new job that pays well, if I can just hang on until my paperwork goes through! I asked God, “Is this your way of seeing how much I trust you?” ☺ I have to smile because seriously, the timing of this blizzard couldn’t be more ironic.
Keeping the Faith in the Emirate!
Aleta
P.S. Readers who want to help are invited to purchase my novel, LONGSHOT, recently released in PDF format. Getting good reviews, check it out! (Synopsis in an earlier blog.) See the “Buy Now” button to the right!
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